Sunday, March 9, 2014

To The Top of Africa

I have returned from my trip to Kilimanjaro. It was a great trip

We left Kampala late Saturday morning to take the 1 hour and 20 minute flight to Kilimanjaro airport. Our taxi ran out of gas about 5 minutes from the airport, so our driver had to get out and take a boda, motorcycle taxi, to get some more gas. We still made it in time for our flight but it was not a good feeling when the driver left us sitting on the side of the road.

The flight was uneventful. We could not see the mountain when we landed because it was covered in clouds, that was a running theme for the week. We stayed in a hotel in Arusha, Tanzania for two nights. The next day we went to get some rental equipment for our climb and went to the local craft market. The remainder of our team arrived on Sunday and we had a meeting with the our guides at the hotel.


Our team at the starting gate
Aaron - Former EMI intern, Canadian
David - Former EMI intern, Canadian, currently volunteering in our office for two months to avoid the deep freeze in Edmonton
Sarah - Staff at EMI in Uganda, American
Katy - Sarah's sister, American
Sara - Architect, American
Roly - Civil Engineer, Canadian, on EMI Canada board
Dan - Civil engineer, American
John - Staff at EMI in Uganda, American
Erland - Former EMI intern, American

Myself - you should know
Peter - current EMI intern from Australia/Hong Kong

On Monday morning we set off to begin our hike up the mountain. Our hike was 7 days along the Machame route. It was a two hour drive from the hotel to the gate. When we arrived at the gate it took some time to get organized. We had to get in line to sign in with the park authorities. Our guides had to organize porters to carry equipment, unfortunately it had been raining that day so not as many porters were waiting at the gate, so they were 5 short and not everything made it to the camp on the first day, they made due with what they had and we didn't notice. After eating lunch we started hiking through the rainforest. It was nice that it stopped raining before we set off. We started at 1800m above sea level. At the end of the first day we exited the rainforest and entered the heath and moorland region. There was a distinct change in vegetation. We camped the first day at Machame camp, 3000m. We hiked for about 5 hours this day.

Our team in the rainforest

The trail started as a dirt road
First rest stop


Porters with their large bags
We reached the first camp

On Tuesday we hiked from Machame camp to Shira camp, 3800m. The trail was narrow and along a ridge with a steady uphill ascent. There was a lot more people on the mountain than I was expecting. It was quite noticeable today with the many tourists and porters all trying to get up the same trail. The day was generally overcast and last hour of the hike it rained. We hiked for 4 hours this day and had some time to hang out and relax at the camp.
Leaving camp

Busy trail to Shira Camp
Checking out the view

The rugged terrain near camp.

To help with acclimatizing to the high altitude and prevent altitude sickness we were taking acetazolamide,which helps you blood carry more oxygen. One the side effect though is that is makes you go to the bathroom more frequently. As a result we were often waking up in the middle of the night to go. The benefit was that most nights there was clear skies and the stars were amazing. On Tuesday night when I woke up there I saw the first clear view of the top of the mountain. Until this point it had been covered in clouds.

On Wednesday we hiked up to Lava Tower, 4700m, and back down to Barranco camp, 3900m. It was a clear day when we started and we walked in the sunshine for the first time. The sun is much stronger at higher altitudes and is warmed up 10-15 degrees when the sun came out. We were constantly putting on and taking off layers of clothes to stay comfortable. We hiked through the heath and moorland and into the alpine desert. There were only a few small plants at this altitude and some small patches of snow. We ate lunch at the base of Lava Tower. This is the closest to the summit as we would get before the day we went to the top. After this we would be walking around the mountain to summit from the other side. After lunch a few of us climbed to the top of Lava Tower. It was fun to do a little more climbing as opposed to hiking. It was amazing how quickly the clouds would roll in and cover everything. On our hike down from Lava Tower to Barranco camp it began to hail. It hailed enough that the ground was white and it was stinging my hands as it fell. On the way down, Aaron began to get sick. It was a beautiful view and we entered Barranco valley and the clouds partially cleared. There is some unique vegetation on Kilimanjaro and we could see much of it in the valley. As we got to camp Aaron was feeling sick and laid down for a nap.We hiked for 8 hours this day.
Beautiful sunrise
The first day with a good view of the summit
Walking through the alpine desert

Climbing Lava Tower




At the top of Lava Tower
At the base of Lava Tower
Walking in the hail. It was surprising how handy an umbrella was.
Among the unique vegetation in Barranco Valley
Barranco Valley
Coming into camp

On Thursday morning Aaron decided to hike to the next camp to see if he would get any better, so he went at a slower pace with one of the guides while the rest of us carried on. The first part of the hike was up Barranco wall. Looking at the wall from camp you couldn't see a path, but once everyone began ascending there was a steady line of people up the wall. It was very congested as hikers and porters were all trying to get up at the same time. At one point one of the porters dropped a bag, understandable as they are often carrying bags on their head as they climb. This came to the cheers of all the other porters as the bag tumbled down the mountain side. They don't drop bags very often.

It was very foggy today and we could not see anything, it was too bad as we missed the views of the valley below as we climbed the wall. After reaching the top of the wall we hiked over several ridges and down into a valley and up the other side to Karanga camp, 4000m. We hiked for 5 hours this day. After the hike Aaron was getting more sick and decided that he needed to go down. He left with on the guides at 6pm and didn't arrive at the next camp until after midnight. It was tough to see him leave as we wanted to get to the top as a team and he is great guy to have around. He began to feel better when he reached the bottom. He had fluid building up in his lungs as a result of the altitude. Thank God he was okay.

Barranco Wall, notice the line of people
Roly and John with the trees, Senecio Kilimanjari, that reminded us of Mario land

Climbing Barranco wall
Traffic jam
Top of Barranco wall. We were in a cloud and couldn't see anything around us. The peak of the mountain is behind us somewhere.

On Friday we walked from Karanga camp to Barafu camp, 4600m. The hike was relatively uneventful and the sky was cloudy and overcast so we couldn't see much. A few members of our team got sick overnight, most likely a stomach bug as it went through several members of our team. Dan and Sarah were feeling quite sick and tired this day and John was beginning to get sick as well.
Another overcast/rainy day, plenty of rocks and clouds to see

Checking out the view again

Coming up into camp
Camping above the clouds

Erland and I enjoying the view at Barafu camp
Amazing sunset through the clouds

We reached Barafu camp in the early afternoon. We had lunch and tried to sleep as we were going to the summit overnight. It was difficult to sleep as it was the middle of the day and the temperature would fluctuate dramatically as the sun came and went, our tent would get very hot. As we woke up to eat dinner Roly got sick. We ate dinner and then tried to sleep some more. After dinner I got sick, none of my dinner stayed down. I tried to drink some water so that I wouldn't get dehydrated for the summit hike but as I tried to lay down I had to get up again to throw up. When we woke up at 11pm to get ready for our climb I threw up again. It was not a very good start to the climb. Our team had some drinks and digestive biscuits. I didn't have anything as I didn't want to vomit anymore. I put a few biscuits in my pocket for later.

The lights of Moshi below
We began the hike just after midnight. As we were at high altitude we were walking very slow. It was very hard for me as I had no food in my stomach and I was dehydrated from vomiting. The camp was fairly long but it took us 45 minutes to get out of the camp. We began the slow uphill climb to the top in the dark of night. It was a clear night so we could see many stars and the towns at the base of the mountain below. Shortly after we started the moon came up.

The town of Moshi at the base of the mountain

The peak under the stars
Ascending to the peak overnight, you can see some climbers light in the distance

We were walking with headlamps on so that we could see the terrain in front of us. The majority of that hike feels like a blur to me as I was feeling very weak and tired. It had felt like we were walking for a long time when we stopped to take a break and someone said that it had been two hours. It was discouraging as it had felt much longer and we still had hours to go. Shortly after this stop I had to ask one of the guides to carry my day pack as it was beginning to feel very heavy to me. It took a bit to convince myself to ask for help as I wanted to do it on my own. But I know that I would not make it to the top if I didn't ask for help. The lack of sleep, lack of water and lack of food were beginning to catch up with me. I was getting very tired and my body wanted to sleep. After almost falling asleep walking, I just focused on breathing and taking one more step. After four hours of walking I knew I needed some energy or I would have to go down. When we stopped I ate half a digestive biscuit hoping that it would stay down. Eating just a little bit gave me a boost in energy and I felt like I could keep going. The next thing that gave me more energy was the sun rising. It was a beautiful sunrise. It brought warmth with it as my hands and feet we starting to get cold. It really wasn't that cold out, around -5, but my body was not staying very warm without much energy and we were walking very slowly.

John fell asleep a few times when we stopped
Sunrise over Mawenzi, the lower peak on Kilimanjaro
Our group refreshed as the sun came up
 The sun also made to top of the ridge visible and it wasn't that far. With renewed energy the group continued. We reached the top of the ridge, Stella Point, and it felt like I could make it to the top, the peak was in sight and it was relatively gradual terrain remaining. We reached the summit shortly after 8am. It was such a relief as I didn't think I would make it when we left camp.
Resting at Stella Point before making the final push to the top

Almost at the top

It was a beautiful clear day, especially after five mostly overcast days

Our team at the top of Africa
Glacier and Mt Meru in the distance

The volcano crater covered in snow

The hike up was such a tough challenge as part of me felt like I should turn back and I wouldn't make it to the top. A few lesson that I can see in it as I reflect on the experience. We are not here to struggle on our own. Galatians 6:2 tells us to bear one another's burdens and so fulfill the law of Christ. In times when we feel strong we are to help others bear their burdens. For me the lesson was that in times of weakness, when we cannot do it in our own strength, we need to let other help bear the burden for us. In this instance that was asking the guide to carry my pack, but in our lives we must not be too proud to ask others to help us. That is one of the blessing of being in a family of believers/

Another lesson that I learned was that we don't always know how we will encourage others. After struggling with whether or not to turn around I decided that unless I thought I was going to die I would keep going one step at a time. Even though I was feeling very weak I knew I could take one more step each time. What I didn't know was that Roly, who had also gotten sick that day, was walking right behind me thinking if someone turns around to go back he would go with them. By persevering in our struggles we can be an encouragement to others.

The last lesson that I want to pass on is that God is able to give us strength when we are weak. I don't really know how I made it to the top, and other team members expressed the same feelings, but God gave me enough strength to make it to the top. Although climbing a mountain is such a small thing is the eternal view, God can still use the experience to teach us and show us his faithfulness. God will give us the strength we need to take the next step.

Peter got sick at Stella Point from the altitude, so he took a while to reach the summit. The rest of the group reached the top and most of us sat down it the snow, tired and relieved to have made it to the top. It was beautiful at the top. It was covered in fresh snow that was glistening in the sunshine. After all the days of being cloudy and raining, we had a perfect day at the top. Once Peter reached the top we took a group picture and began the descent. Since we were not going any higher and no longer had to adjust to the altitude, we no longer had to walk very slow. The 8 hour ascent took me 1 hour and 15 minutes to get back down to camp. The descent was my favourite part of the hike as we could run down in the loose scree beside the path. It felt like skiing down the loose gravel in my boots. I was following the guide in front of me and when we stopped and looked back we were several hundred meters down the hill and most of the team was still at the top.

Descending from the peak
Our descent back to camp. This is what we hiked in the dark. The sun melted most of the snow

Barafu camp about to be engulfed in clouds

We came back to Barafu camp and rested. We ate lunch and rested again then descended to Millennium camp, 3800m. Our team was very tired at this point from the long day of hiking and lack of sleep. We ate dinner and went to bed early.


Waking up on Sunday morning I felt like a new person. I had energy again and my stomach felt fairly settled. It was a clear sunny day again. We hike down to the gate in 4 hours, it was a very good pace as we were ready to leave. We had some spectacular view and it was a great day to end the trip on.

Our team with all the guides, cooks, and porters, 50 in total
It was another beautiful, clear day

The peak visible through the trees in the forest

John and I and a massive tree

Our group in the rainforest

Reaching our destination, the gate out of the park
We reached the gate signed out of the park, at lunch and returned to the hotel. The only thing that could have made the day better would have been watching the hockey gold medal game. The Olympics were on Supersport channel 6, the hotel got Supersport 1,2, 3, 4, 5 and 7, but not 6. Oh well.


It was a great trip, such a unique experience. We had a wonderful team to share the experience with. I am once again reminded that life is about relationships. This trip strengthened some existing relationship and created some new ones. I am so thankful for the opportunity to do this. It has been great to help raise fund for EMI's new office in Uganda. Again this week I have been reminded that my work here is not about designing and constructing buildings, but it is about relationships. This new office will allow EMI to expand and grow in the way that we are building relationships in East Africa.

May God bless you today as you build and invest in the relationships around you,
Matt

Praises:
-A great trip and I made it to the top
-Aaron was safe and is healthy again
-I was again reminded upon returning to Kampala of the wonderful community that God has placed me in

Prayer Requests:
-Fundraising for the office project, prior to the fund raised for this climb we were at $214,000 out of the $275,000 that the construction projects will be.
-We are waiting for some government approvals for several months before we can continue the permit process.
-It feels like I have been gone for a while and have struggled to get back in to things here.